Shoe



Many 29, 11923. 11,456,695 J. F. JONAS SHOE Filed Sept. :3, 1920ZSheets-Sheet 1 61 Moi/Au o May 29, 1923 J. F. JONAS SHOE Filed Sept.1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Wits woo Patented May 29, 11923.

omsrras JACOB F. J'ONA S, OF BELLEVUE, KENTUCKY.

snort Application filed September 3, 1920. Serial No. 407,937.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JACOB F. JONAS, a citizen of the United States, andresiding at Bellevue, in the county of Campbell and State of Kentucky,have invented a new and useful Improvement in Shoes, of which thefollowing specification is a full disclosure.

This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots andshoes for providing an instep brace and arched form of support at theshank portion of the shoe, and primarily .in providing an insole havingan instep extension which in the process of above manufacture is archedat the shank portion of the shoe, or can be built up preliminarily toits application in the manufacture of the shoe, and thereby provide anarticle of manufacture or commerce.

The invention is herein particularly exemplified as embodied ina shoe ofthe welt type although its incorporation in shoes of other types ismanifest. It relates to the production of a standard or commercial shoepossessing orthopedic qualities, and which will more accurately conformtothe anatomical structure of the foot principally at'the shank portionthereof and to a shoe in which the orthopedic features are permanentlyincorporated in the shoe, without interfering with the flexibility ofthe shoe, or the stand ard processes of shoe manufacture nor materiallyincreasing the cost, and in which the prevailing shoe style and designcan be maintained so that its marketing attractiveness is predeominatingand inherently in its corrective and preventive functions, offeriplg aclose fitting, flexible and comfortable s cc.

An object of the invention is to provide a shoe with an insole stiffenedand arched at the shank portion of the shoe and having an instepextension conforming to the shape of the instep portion of the foot asan instep brace free and non-attached to the upper of the shoe, tocoincide with the outline of the instep of a foot.

- Another object of the invention is to provide a shoe with an insoleasa permanent part of the shoe and having an instep ex tension, and theheel portion of the insole canted to one side in the process of lastingfor arching the shank portion of the insole.

Another object of the invention is to provide an insole, as an articleof manufacture or commerce, having an instep extension and an archedshank portion having instep bracing and arch supporting characteristics,and conforming to the foot of the wearer at such portions, when theinsole is incorporated within a shoe.

Another objectof the invention is to provide an insole of laminated format the shank to reinforce or stiffen the insole at the shank portion andto provide one of the laminations with inseam lips and the second withan instep extension free from stitching connecting the insole to theupper.

Another object of the invention is to provide an insole with a metalarch support formed as an integral part of its structure, the shankleather portions of the insole sections conforming to the configurationof the steel arch supporting plate.

Another object is to provide an article of manufacture as a unitary archsupport and insole, wherein a reinforcing arch support is rigidly heldbetweeen layers of the insole material to protect the foot from contactwith the said arch support, and to fasten the said ,support so thatitwill be permanently held in its proper position, to prevent frictionwith or deformation of the upper.

Other objects and certain advantages will be disclosed in thedescription and reference is made to the drawings, forming a part of.this specification, in which:

Fig. 1 is a bottom plan View of one layer of the insole, showing theinseam lip formed thereon, and showing in dot-and-dash lines theposition of the auxiliary heel and shank piece.

Fig. 2 is an edge viewof Fig. I.

Fig. 3 is a bottom plan of the auxiliary heel and shank piece with theinseam lip formed thereon.

Fig. 4 is an edge view of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a bottom plan View of the insole with the layers shown in Figs; 1 and 3 united in condition for lasting in a shoe, or receiilzingan arch supporting plate intermediate Figl fi is an edge view of Fig. 5.

Figs. 7 and 8 are respectively sections on lines 7-7 and 88 of Fig. 6,with a covering layer adhesively secured to the shank and toe portion onthe inseam lip side.

Fig. 9 is a bottom plan view of the insole, showing the arch support inposition and illustrating :the manner of buckling the insole for thereception and attachment of the said arch support, and represented as anarticle of commerce.

Fig. 10 is an edge viewof the completed insole and arch support.

Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are respectively a plan, a side elevation and an endelevation of the metal arch support, and

Fig. 14 is a sectional view on line 1414 of Fig. 10, showing the insoleand arch suppfirt attached to the upper as in a completed s cc.

The insole possesses all the qualifications of a type of insolecommercially known as a Gem of laminated form in which the body layer ofa leather stock is marginally skived, slit and channeled from the heelbreast line forwardly, the slit portion providing two opposing featheredges turned up to provide a lip marginal projection for stitching theinsole to the upper. The body layer on the lip side, after the lips havebeeen formed, is covered with a canvas layer, covering the upturnedfeather edge skivings and together forming a reinforced inseam orstitching lip; a type of insole ordinarily used in makin a Goodyear weltshoe.

eferring to the drawings, 1 indicates the body layer of my improvedlaminated insole, which is preferably of a leather stock, on one side(see Figs. 1 and 2) marginally slit and channeled from the heel line onone side about the fore part thereof, and terminating at the forwardshank line of the toe'or sole portion of the insole, to provide a pairof oppositely disposed feather edge skivings which are turned upwardlyor at an angle to the plane of the body layer and adhesively unitedtogether forming an upstanding lip projection or beading 2; Atapproximately the point where the lip terminates at the forward shankline at one side of the body layer, the layer has an instep extension 3of curved outline and reaching rearwardly to the heel breast line, whichextension is adaptedto be curved or bent inwardly on the face side ofthe insole or layer so as to lie against the instep portion of the upperof the shoeafter the insole has been lasted and in the completed shoe.The instep extension is skived to taper the same from its junction linewith the shank portion of the body layer outwardly to provide a thin orfeather edge at its outward extremity.

A second layer 5 as a shank and heel section is secured upon the bodylayer 1, preferably at the heel end, by an adhesive leaving the shankportion of said layer free. This second layer (see Figs. 3 and l) isapproximately of the contour of the heel and shank port on of the outerlayer, excepting at the outside shoe line of the shank portion from theheel breast line to the forward shank terminal line along which it iscut. away at 6 or reduced to enable its edge to lie inwardly adjacentthe upturned lip of body layer (see Fig. 5). The second layer is.

skived at the cut shank edge and the edgeupturned to provide "lipprojection 7 from f the heel breast line forwardly, while theoppositeiorinside edge, marginally is skived and channeled from the heelbreast line forare united one upon the other, a lip projection orheading extends from the heel breast line at one side of the insole,about the fore. part thereof and terminating at the heel,

breast line at the opposite side of the sole, for stitching andanchoring the upper to the insole at the opposite shank sides, leavingthe instep extension free.

The body layer at the inside longitudinal shank line being unsecuredtothe upper,'a pocket is formed between the layers, open from the instepextension end for the insertion of a metallic or other suitablereinforcing shank and instep plate. The forward or transverse edge 9 ofthe second layer is skived or tapered to provide for a flush finish withthe plane of the body layer at the overlying junction of the two layers,thereby avoiding any objectionable ridge or protuberance on the faceside of the insole in a finished shoe which would cause discomfort tothe wearer.

Theinside seam lip or projection 8 formed on the second layer isextended slightly beyond the forward edge of the layer as shown at 11,(Fig. 2) which extension is inserted between the contiguous raisedskivings of the body layer, whereby the two layers are securely unitedat such point with the inseam stitching securing the upper and welt tothe insole.

A canvas layer 12 is applied over' the layers 1 and 5, from the heelbreast line forwardly covering the lip projection of the layer, theprojection qualifying as a filler and producing a substantial marginalbeading or inseam lip, the composite insole then formed possessing allthe characteristics of the commercially known Gem insole, and adaptingthe insole to be lasted and stitched to the upper under the prevailingcommercial methods. It comprises a greater ply thickness at the shankportion, offering increased rigidity or stiffness at such portion andsufficient stability to sustain and support the arch of the foot. Forsome wearers, however, additional reinforcement may be required whichmay be obtained as hereinafter described. The sole or fore part of theinsole being of a normal. layer thickness. meets the requirements forflexibility and is obtainable under such process of manufacture for thegrade of stock employed.

The instep extension, being free and nonsecured at the inner inseam lineof the shank,

foot, which a standard contour of the shank at the instep portion of thefoot for close fitting.

It is desirable to 'makethe shoe upon a last which has its shank portionsomewhat deeper thanthe commercial last, particularly at theinside'shank and instep portion corresponding more closely to thecontour of the normal foot. This, in accordance with the presentinvention, permits the shank portion of the insole to be curved orarchedlongitudinally in the process of lasting the insole,

and under a preferred method now practiced I and known to the artconsisting of tacking the fore part of the insole to the last and thenmoving the heel part of the insole laterally toward the inner edge todistort it and form an arch at the, shank, then tacking the heel part ofthe insole to the last while thus distorted, and stitching the upper tothe insole in any known manner. The heel portion is canted or movedlaterally to a degree which will arch it to conform to the depth of archcut in the bottom of the last.

The method of'arching the shank portion of the insole during the processof lasting can be eliminated from another aspect of the presentinvention, rendering the insole completely shaped and arched at itsshank to'its shoe finish form, distinct from any.

process of lasting. In this capacity the insole may be treated as anarticle of manufacture or commerce independently of its organization ina shoe, without sacrificing any of the features and capacities that havebeen found desirable when utilized as heretofore described, and.offering additional salientfeatures and advantages as;' increasing themanufacturing capacity, lowering its cost and manipulative steps inprocess of lasting the insole in a shoe, and producing a higher qualityproduct, particularly as to its arch and instep supporting shape curvinglines and permanency thereto when incorporated in a shoe. The archinstead'of following a standard form contour may be variously shaped fordifferent shoes, or to meet particular custom demands, so that orthoedic qualifications are more superlative ant distinctive for each shoeand particular curvature for the arch of lasts would not permit.

Reference being had to Figs. 9 to 14 inclusiveof the drawings it will beobserved that the layers of the insole conform substantially to aninsole as heretofore described with reference to Figs. 1 to 8 inclusive,consisting of a body layer, a second layer as a heel and shank la er,and the covering layers, inseam lip an instep extension from the bodylayers, producing the flexible or stiffened shank insole With instepextensions so that the previous description of these parts as to detailof construction and assembling will again apply without repetition.

-ings are provided in the arch support for For the insole as a productor article of manufacture, a thin metallic plate 14 is inserted in thepocket formed between the shank portions of the body layer 1 and thesecond layer 5. This plate is of suitable blank shape and pressed toform a longitudinal shank portion 15 provided longitudinally .withoppositely disposed apertures 16 therethrough, a tail or head extensionl7'adapted to extend over a portion of the heel end of the insole,giving the plate a heel anchorage in the finished shoe and addingstability to plate as an arch support. It is also provided with a curvedinstep extension 18, curved upwardly, underlying the instep extension ofthe body layer of the insole and preferably slightly reduced dimension,adapting the body layer extension to marginally overlap the same. Theplate is secured by eyelet fasteners or rivets 20 passing through thelayers of the insole and perforations or apertures in the plate. Theapertures 16 are relatively positioned for properly locating the platewithin the insole pocket between the layers, and the parts are securedtogether so that the shank portions of the layers will conform to thehape of the plate to lean snugly against the same so as not to produceany buckling or raised obstruction injurious or discomforting to thefoot. In attaching the layers of the insole to the metallic shank plateit is desirable to secure the plate together first at the fore part ofthe shank plate and then cant or move the heel end of the layerslaterally to ward the inner edge to distort it and from the archcorresponding to the degree of arch of the shank plate 14. This isclearly illustrated in Fig. 9 in which the dot-.and-dash lines show thenormal position of the heel end of the layer after the platehas beeninserted and secured at its forward end, and

the full lines showing the layers canted laterally for arching the shankportions thereof. The plate, having greater stability than the materialof the layer, holds the layers to the shape of the plate after they aresecured thereto, so that the insole as a composite product is inv acondition ready to "be lasted in a shoe and retain its shape during thelasting, stitching and finishing. operation in completing the shoemanufacture. The double curve in relative transverse lines for the archand instep formations increase the rigidity of the plate with oneportion thereof trussing another. Additional open the reception of otherfastening means (not shown) and a small fastener is inserted at 20 toassist in holding the cemented heel ortions of the insole layerstogether. The finished insole is lasted in a general manner and as shownin Fig. 14, the upper2l, and welt 22 are stitched to the seam lip of thecomposite insole bystitches 23 and the outer sole 24 stitched to theWelt in the usual manner. v v

The instep extensions of the insole and shank plate lie upon the insideof the upper adjacent the lining thereof with the plate intermediate ofthe instep extension of' heel breast line at one side of the layersabout the fore part thereof and terminating at the forward shank lineand instep extension at the opposite side of the layer, and a secondlayer of; areduced length to said main layer, having a lipformed ononeside from the heel breast line to the shank line terminal of the lipof saidv first layer as a continuation thereof, the two layers beingnon-secured at said instep extension, and a lining and upper outside ofsaid, instep extension securedto the lips of said layers.

2. A shoe comprising a composite insole having a main layer providedwith an instep extension at the shank inner side, a second layer of heeland shank length providing a greater ply thickness at the shank portionof the insole, said layers together formed on one face with a lipprojection extending from the heel breast line forwardly and marginallyaround the insole, and an upper secured to said insole with the instepextension lying freely on the inside surface of the uper. P 3. A shoecomprising a composite insole having a main layer provided with aninstep extension at the. shank inner side, a second layer of heel andshank length, providing thickness at the shank portion of sion lyingfreely on the inside surface of the upper.

4. A composite insole having a greater ply thickness at the shankportion, thereof, an

arched shank plate inserted between the layers thereof, the heel andshank portions of the insole being offset laterally to form an archedelevation in the shank and secured in its offset position to said shankplate.

5. An insole having a greater thickness of material at the shank portionthereof, an instep extension from the inner side of the shank portion,and an arch plate for the shank portion of said insole, the heel andshank portions of the insole being offset laterally to form an archedelevation at the shank and secured in its offset position to the plate.

6. An insole having a greater thickness of material at the shank portionthereof, an instep extension from the inner side of the shank portion,and an arch plate for the shank portion of said insole, having an instepextension, the heel and shank portions of the insole" being offsetlaterally to form an arched elevation .at the shank and secured in itsoffset position to the plate.

In witness whereof, I hereunto subscribe my name, as attested by the twosubscribing witnesses,

,- JACOB F. JONAS.

Witnesses:

L. A. Econ, J. C. Jumps.

